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Imagine a Small Hole...

The Royal Tombs of Axum: A Visit by Stuart Munro-Hay

Passageway Beneath Tomb Entrance, Axum

Passageway Beneath Tomb Entrance, Axum

Christopher T. Snow
Archaeologists don't recognise themselves in Indiana Jones; his methods and results raise a shudder of horror in a profession dedicated to precision, care and the slow, meticulous uncovering of the past. Nevertheless, there are true moments of drama in archaeology that can compare with even the most extravagant of Indiana's sets.

Imagine a small hole leading down a narrow shaft into the earth. A rough wooden ladder is inserted; down you go. At the bottom, darkness and the heavy, moist air of an ancient tomb. A ball of string to guide your return, a candle to light you, and you set out into the gloom. The candle barely illuminates a large rock-cut chamber. On through a rough doorway---room after room. You concentrate on what the flame dimly reveals---a floor covered with shiny dry mud---walls and roof imperfectly seen. Here a skull, gleaming white suddenly in the light, guards an entrance, or the greenish tint of some ancient bronze object is fitfully illuminated; there pots still lie intact where the servants of the dead---or later robbers---left them. Then, at the end, a huge dressed stone forbids further exploration. Suddenly you realise the candle is dimming. There is no oxygen. You find yourself gasping for breath....

Text copyright Stuart Munro-Hay 1998

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